Any well-behaved program should write a descriptive message to the
reflog whenever it updates a reference. Let's make this more prominent
by removing the version without the reflog parameters.

Whenever a reference is created or updated, we need to write to the
reflog regardless of whether the user gave us a message, so we shouldn't
leave that to the ref frontend, but integrate it into the backend.

This also eliminates the race between ref update and writing to the
reflog, as we protect the reflog with the ref lock.

As an additional benefit, this reflog append on the backend happens by
appending to the file instead of parsing and rewriting it.