Cleanup handling of KAFKA_VERSION env var in tests (#1887)

Now that we are using `pytest`, there is no need for a custom decorator
because we can use `pytest.mark.skipif()`.

This makes the code significantly simpler. In particular, dropping the
custom `@kafka_versions()` decorator is necessary because it uses
`func.wraps()` which doesn't play nice with `pytest` fixtures:
- https://github.com/pytest-dev/pytest/issues/677
- https://stackoverflow.com/a/19614807/770425

So this is a pre-requisite to migrating some of those tests to using
pytest fixtures.

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